Sunrise on the Golden Horn: A Morning at Rixos Tersane
I woke before the muezzin's call and slipped down to the rowing club dock. The Golden Horn was glass — a mirror reflecting minarets and container cranes in the same breath. By the time I returned to Velena for breakfast, I had rowed through six centuries of history and worked up an appetite for the best shakshuka in Beyoğlu.





